Saturday, April 24, 2010

Color Theory

So we're going back to art class today - everyone remember the color wheel that we learned in grade school? This is the very basic of what I do when it comes to hair color.

First off, there are 3 primary colors - Blue, Red, and Yellow. The American hair level system is 1-10, 1 being black, 10 being pale blonde. Each level has a 'remaining pigment' that is revealed when the hair is lightened.
For example, when you lift hair from being black, it goes through different levels. On the color wheel, start at blue, and work counter clockwise around. Darker colors appear dark because they have larger molecules of dye, blue being the largest, therefore the darkest. As you lighten, red is the next largest primary color molecule, so that begins to show through next. Red is the hardest to get into the hair shaft, and also to get rid of. Because the human eye views it with such certainty, either you love it or hate it.
Level 6 (light brown)'s remaining pigment is Red. As you lift from light brown to blonde (for highlights), you go through an red-orange, orange, and yellow-orange stage. This is the part of the coloring process that most people dislike getting 'stuck' in. No one wants brassy orange highlights, so to get through that, you just have to either pop it up to level 9 or 10 (remaining pigment yellow = pretty) or tone out the unwanted pigment.

Tone = color glaze = toner = demi/semi permanent color - it's all the same thing. To neutralize the unwanted color, you just go opposite of the color wheel. So if you look at the red color above, the opposite across the circle is green. If you look at the blue color above, the opposite is orange. These are called Complimentary colors.

Color is one of my favorite services to provide for both men and women because it can change the appearance of someone so dramatically, for better or worse. I always try to keep in mind the person's eye color, skin color, and how much they want to maintain their look. So you can either use just color, foils, or a combination of the two, foil with color. Personally, I feel that foil with color gives the most options because it's very multi-dimensional.

Last but not least - please do not attempt this hair color theory process at home by yourself! Because when you end up with black on your hair and decide that it was a mistake, we have to go through all those levels of color to get it out. It's impossible to just put a lighter color on top of a darker color and expect beautiful results. Think - Easter egg coloring.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Please Do NOT Try This At Home!!!

"Cutting your hair can takes time, money, and talent. What if you have little of these? Using an easy technique can give you a quick, layered cut. This technique can be accomplished with long or shorter hair. By short we are speaking about shoulder length. Long hair would be considered anything longer than shoulder length.

Proper tools are probably the hardest part of this haircut. A pair of sharp scissors is a must. Most trouble with do it yourself haircuts comes from using scissors that are dull. It is impossible to make straight, clean cuts with dull scissors. Most haircutting scissors found in grocery or drug stores will work just fine. They usually don’t retain their sharpness as long as an expensive pair but they work for a while.

A fine tooth comb is another tool that will make this cut go fast and easy. Any type of comb is fine as long as you can comb the hair our evenly. Hair must be combed out evenly and a fine tooth comb works well. Clean hair is also a must for this cut to work. Hair can be wet or dry although most people prefer wet cutting. Make sure that hair is shampooed and snarls are combed out. The hair must be free from residue such as hairspray and gel. Make sure that you cut your hair in an area away from food and where the hair can drop freely onto the floor.

If you are trying this cut on yourself don’t bother with a plastic covering for your clothes or a towel around your shoulders. If will just get in the way and make it difficult for you to cut. The cut can be done in front of a mirror to make sure all of the hair is tangle free and smoothed out, but the actual cutting will be done by looking at the hair.

With a pair of sharp scissors, a fine tooth comb, and clean hair that is tangle free, you are ready to begin the cut. The explanation of this cut will be cutting your own hair. It can be adapted to cut someone else’s. Stand up, feet one foot to one and a half feet apart. Bend over, flipping hair towards the floor. Comb hair out straight and smooth. Make a cut straight across your hair. Depending on the thickness of the hair, you may need to make more than one cut. Just cut horizontally as straight as possible. The length from the top of your head to the scissors is how long the top layer of hair will be. All hair beneath the top of your head will be longer. If your cut is three inches from the top of your head, your top layer will be three inches and neckline layer will be approximately nine inches. All the other hair will be layered to lengths in between three and nine inches.

Be careful not to lock your knees. Locking your knees can lead to light-headedness. You may already feel some light-headedness by bending over. If you need to stop, do so, then repeat the process beginning where you left off, cutting as horizontally straight as you can.

It’s easy and it works. Have fun with your new haircutting technique."

I was just perusing the Internet and wandered about this crazy post. I laughed to myself at the silliness of it, but then I realized that some people actually DO this! So I'm going to bust out this rule again - PLEASE don't be cutting your hair at home. It's actually worse than going to those $10 places. Speaking of which...I want a T-shirt that says "I fix $10 haircuts" so if anyone knows of where to get that...let me know!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Hair "Rules" Broken!

I was reading through some online postings about hair. I was appalled when I realized how much untrue things that people are reading and taking for truth. Time to point them out!

Not every type of hair can use layers, however. Very curly hair does not layer well, because the curls tend to tighten and disrupt the layered look, creating a scruffy appearance. Similarly, individuals who like to change their styles frequently may not want to attempt layers, because it can take years to grow out them out.

I have absolutely NO one that sits in my chair and doesn't get layers. And as most of you know - curly hair is one of my favorites to cut. So...curly hair does get layers and it DOES work! Just being educated about HOW to layer hair for each individual type, texture, density, face shape, body shape, there's a lot that goes into it. But layers can work for everyone and any type of hair.

And even people that like change, layers are the QUICKEST way to change the shape of the haircut without having to cut all your hair short.

At home color....please just don't try it. I know a few ladies that color just their grey hair and I can always tell that they do it on their own. Box hair color that you buy from Sally's, the department store, or Wal-Mart, they are all just that - BOX color and BAD for your hair. I know that I wouldn't have any kind of length on my hair if it wasn't for the Aveda products and haircolor that I use.

Never cut curly hair with a razor. Correction - you CAN cut curly hair with a razor but don't tear it apart, as you shouldn't with straight or wavy hair either. "Potato peeling" is not a good technique for razor cutting, but I used to cut like that because I didn't know better and I still see stylists doing it.